![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
This project was caulking an acrylic shower surround. White.
Definitely not a professional job, but, i think it will work.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
i used silicone caulk, it seems to be holding ok.
(i googled, some have problems getting it to stick.)
i cleaned the area, allowed to dry. i have a small fan running (facing the shower stall) it's been running for 24+ hours, wanted the area to be dry. i'll leave the fan running for another 24 hours before using the shower, even tho the caulk instructions say, "30 minutes" to water resistance.Robert wrote:As long as the surface was clean, you should be fine.
ahh, thank you! if i must re-do, i hope to remember to return for your suggestions.gcdonner wrote:I prefer to use DAP 3.0 Kitchen, Bath & Plumbing caulking. I is not water soluble and is water resistant in 30 minutes. I use masking tape to get clean lines and wet my finger(s) to get a smooth finish, blending it onto the tape. Then when finished I remove the tape and have much less cleanup, and a nice crisp line.
I have not ever had good results with silicone and it can tend to peel at times. I prefer the above mentioned material for sinks, tubs/surrounds, and other plumbing related caulking jobs.
My second choice would be Polyseamseal which is now marketed by Loctite.
I hope your job lasts for you T1.
I assume that you have fiberglass units in place for refinishing or are you having new porcelain sprayed onto the original of steel/cast iron pieces? In either case, I would have the refinishing work done first, then replace the fixtures. If you are concerned about scratches in the new finish, you can always put masking tape around each hole (the blue painters tape) and then remove after the fixtures are in place but before you tighten down the escutcheons, which are the final part of the job.RZehr wrote:I have another pluming / shower question. I'm planning to have my tub/shower refinished and I want to replace the hardware as well. Which should happen first, the refinish or the hardware (shower pipe & head, control handle, and faucet)?
I don't want the refinish guy to get his goop or whatever he uses, on the new hardware. But I don't want him done, and then my new hardware doesn't quite match.
I have installed those splash guards on my tub/shower and it does the trick, but you will still need to put just a dab of caulking in the very corner on the inside (shower side) to keep it from oozing out through there as the corner didn't seal well on mine. Here's hoping it works for you!temporal1 wrote:love those posts, RZehr+george.
george, thanks for adding your youtube link.![]()
i was thinking of it for Automotive, too.
my caulk job is "better than it was," but did not stop the annoying small water leaks (i was sure it would!) next step:
Shower Splash Guard
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Weiman-Product ... s/50295255
surely this will do it?!
i've read several "excellent" reviews; for the tiny amount of splash i have, it should work fine.
placed between the shower curtain and shower liner, it should not be visible.
i'm a little afraid of their adhesive on my nice acrylic shower fixtures, but, will hope for the best.
on this Lowes page, one reviewer stated he caulked all around his guard, but, i doubt i would need that (?) i have just a few drops of water that escape from under the shower curtain in one corner, so, this guard should be "over kill" for my use (?) i hope.
if my family ever visitsit might be a great help for them.
gotcha! i wondered about that very thing, so, i will do it from the start. it will be be easiest right then, with everything clean+dry.gcdonner wrote:I have installed those splash guards on my tub/shower and it does the trick, but you will still need to put just a dab of caulking in the very corner on the inside (shower side) to keep it from oozing out through there as the corner didn't seal well on mine.
Here's hoping it works for you!