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gcdonner wrote:If you can still till the ground, it's not too late. You can even use leaves as compost/mulch on top of the soil after you have planted if you want to.

Thanks!I can certainly still till.. Highs were around 70 on Christmas and now they've dropped down to the upper 50's
I'll have to wait for the ground to dry a bit, though.
I've got leaves composting with manure, and I'll have plenty shredded and set aside to use as mulch.

Just got my soil test results in-
pH: 6.3 silt loam soil texture
P: 291 ppm ("above optimum")
K: 64 ppm ("below optimum")
Zn: 9.1 ppm ("above optimum")

Any recommended does or don'ts based on these results? I don't use synthetic fertilizers so do bear that in mind.

Confused by the "high" P readings cause I had plants that I sure would say were showing signs of being P deficient

KingdomBuilder wrote:Just got my soil test results in-
pH: 6.3 silt loam soil texture
P: 291 ppm ("above optimum")
K: 64 ppm ("below optimum")
Zn: 9.1 ppm ("above optimum")

Any recommended does or don'ts based on these results? I don't use synthetic fertilizers so do bear that in mind.

Confused by the "high" P readings cause I had plants that I sure would say were showing signs of being P deficient

We always went to our local agricultural extension service to have soil tests done. The results would always be accompanied by recommendations for amendments if any were needed. It was inexpensive and helpful.

Most agricultural extension services are supervised by a state university and are listed in the phone book under state listings. These days I think you could probably do an Internet search to find your local office. For example search "Montana agricultural extension service" if you live in Montana.

Hope that's helpful.

MaxPC wrote:

KingdomBuilder wrote:Just got my soil test results in-
pH: 6.3 silt loam soil texture
P: 291 ppm ("above optimum")
K: 64 ppm ("below optimum")
Zn: 9.1 ppm ("above optimum")

Any recommended does or don'ts based on these results? I don't use synthetic fertilizers so do bear that in mind.

Confused by the "high" P readings cause I had plants that I sure would say were showing signs of being P deficient

We always went to our local agricultural extension service to have soil tests done. The results would always be accompanied by recommendations for amendments if any were needed. It was inexpensive and helpful

That's what I've done. But the recommendations are vague and designed for those using a synthetic approach. Not the most helpful.

KingdomBuilder wrote:Just got my soil test results in-
pH: 6.3 silt loam soil texture
P: 291 ppm ("above optimum")
K: 64 ppm ("below optimum")
Zn: 9.1 ppm ("above optimum")

Any recommended does or don'ts based on these results? I don't use synthetic fertilizers so do bear that in mind.

Confused by the "high" P readings cause I had plants that I sure would say were showing signs of being P deficient

Maybe your problem was with too much P, since the test results show above optimum. (whatever P is...potatoes?) and the same for Zn (is that zinc? or ziltch...?), obviously you need to add more K (is that Ketchup?) to the mix.
I guess the best solution is to do a google search for these readings and go from there. Too much of a good thing is as bad as not enough, that's why I use just the right amount of ketchup on my hamburger to compliment the pickles, lettuce, mayonnaise, tomatoes, mustard and onions.

KingdomBuilder wrote:

MaxPC wrote:

KingdomBuilder wrote:Just got my soil test results in-
pH: 6.3 silt loam soil texture
P: 291 ppm ("above optimum")
K: 64 ppm ("below optimum")
Zn: 9.1 ppm ("above optimum")

Any recommended does or don'ts based on these results? I don't use synthetic fertilizers so do bear that in mind.

Confused by the "high" P readings cause I had plants that I sure would say were showing signs of being P deficient

We always went to our local agricultural extension service to have soil tests done. The results would always be accompanied by recommendations for amendments if any were needed. It was inexpensive and helpful

That's what I've done. But the recommendations are vague and designed for those using a synthetic approach. Not the most helpful.

I'm sorry to hear that. Our ag extension would suggest organic/natural amendments if we requested it.

P= phosphorus. You have an over abundance of phosphates in your soil.

K= potassium. You need more potassium.

Zn= zinc. It doesn't look too far out of balance in your results.

Sometimes using too much manure whether chicken or bovine will produce those numbers. Here's a webpage that shares how to address your soil numbers naturally.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/correct-hi ... 28597.html

MaxPC wrote:I'm sorry to hear that. Our ag extension would suggest organic/natural amendments if we requested it.

P= phosphorus. You have an over abundance of phosphates in your soil.

K= potassium. You need more potassium.

Zn= zinc. It doesn't look too far out of balance in your results.

Sometimes using too much manure whether chicken or bovine will produce those numbers. Here's a webpage that shares how to address your soil numbers naturally.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/correct-hi ... 28597.html

I added manure (not as a fertilizer- just as a soil builder... That's another discussion) in the fall, but I made sure to not include any freshly-manured soil directly in my sample.
I'm not sure that the manure is to blame, though. From what I've read, excess phosphorous from manure is more the result of intensive applications designed to meet the N requirements of crops. That's far from what I've done. This soil has only had one addition of manure. Perhaps it's just the native soil.

I'm not too worried about the P right now, I'm not at all concerned with the Zn. My Ca and Mg levels came back great... Which is very nice.
The fact that my Ca and Mg are satisfactory and that my pH is comfortable, I think I'll omit any lime usage (which I'd use for ca and mg- wouldn't be using enough to significantly impact pH).

I really need to pursue raising my K, though. It's only making up 1.81% of my base saturation

I'll likely up my alfalfa to soybean meal as fertilizer ratio to start

MaxPC wrote: I'm sorry to hear that. Our ag extension would suggest organic/natural amendments if we requested it.

P= phosphorus. You have an over abundance of phosphates in your soil.

K= potassium. You need more potassium.

Zn= zinc. It doesn't look too far out of balance in your results.

Sometimes using too much manure whether chicken or bovine will produce those numbers. Here's a webpage that shares how to address your soil numbers naturally.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/correct-hi ... 28597.html

So there were too many fireflies dropping into the garden (P), not enough banana peels (K) and too many nuts and bolts thrown in for aeration (Zn).
You have to watch out for these things you know.

KB, you may be right about the soil's natural composition as a factor. That's why I checked the local ag ext for suggestions as they were aware of the soil types in the area. Of course we were blessed with a good agent and office. Not everyone has that though.

What do you think about the suggestion to plant legumes/nitrogen-fixing plants? We liked white and crimson clover with rye grasses as a cover crop. We would sometimes add in hairy vetch if it was available.

Caveat: this may not be the solution for your particular soil type though. Are there master gardeners in your area who may be knowledgeable in soils and willing to advise you? It helps measurably if the person can visit your garden area in person to examine in situ.

Other factors you may want to consider: what was the previous use of the soil in question? Was it pasture? Chicken yard? Both of these uses could have raised the phosphate levels in the soil and remain for years, again dependent upon how concentrated the fresh manure was from the animals.

gcdonner wrote: So there were too many fireflies dropping into the garden (P), not enough banana peels (K) and too many nuts and bolts thrown in for aeration (Zn).
You have to watch out for these things you know.

KingdomBuilder wrote:

MaxPC wrote:

KingdomBuilder wrote:Just got my soil test results in-
pH: 6.3 silt loam soil texture
P: 291 ppm ("above optimum")
K: 64 ppm ("below optimum")
Zn: 9.1 ppm ("above optimum")

Any recommended does or don'ts based on these results? I don't use synthetic fertilizers so do bear that in mind.

Confused by the "high" P readings cause I had plants that I sure would say were showing signs of being P deficient

We always went to our local agricultural extension service to have soil tests done. The results would always be accompanied by recommendations for amendments if any were needed. It was inexpensive and helpful

That's what I've done. But the recommendations are vague and designed for those using a synthetic approach. Not the most helpful.

Try to find a good lawn and garden place. Especially in the spring, some of them have some very knowledgeable staff on board. Or look for a farm seed and fertilizer place with a good agronomist.